A Rail Route Becomes Recreation
The Route of the Hiawatha, a 15-mile mountain biking trail that winds through the Bitterroot Mountains along the Idaho-Montana border, traces the path of one of America’s most significant transportation failures—and transforms it into one of the region’s premier outdoor attractions.
The trail follows the abandoned right-of-way of the Milwaukee Railroad, a transcontinental line completed in 1909 that represented the third and final attempt to connect the East and West coasts by rail. The railroad carved through rugged terrain, boring 10 tunnels through solid rock to create a passage where none had existed. The most imposing is St. Paul Pass Tunnel, also known as Taft Tunnel, which stretches 1.66 miles beneath the border ridge and measures approximately 23 feet high and 16 feet wide—a remarkable engineering feat that remains largely unchanged after more than a century.
Disaster struck almost immediately after the railroad’s completion. A massive fire swept through western Montana, Idaho, and Washington shortly after 1909, scorching more than 3 million acres and destroying three entire towns. The blaze killed 78 firefighters and nine civilians, a tragedy that darkened the region’s early industrial history.
From Bankruptcy to Biking Trail
The Milwaukee Railroad’s operational lifespan proved short relative to its engineering ambitions. Financial troubles mounted steadily, and the company filed for bankruptcy in 1977. By 1980, all railway operations west of Miles City, Montana, ceased entirely, leaving the rail line abandoned and deteriorating.
The federal government purchased the railroad segment from Haugan, Montana, to Avery, Idaho, for $3.9 million in 1985, preserving the corridor from complete decay. In the early 1990s, the U.S. Forest Service began planning how to repurpose the historic route. The Route of the Hiawatha opened to public use in May 1998, with the first 13 miles available for mountain biking. Trail markers display numerical designations representing miles to Chicago, a remnant of the railroad’s original purpose as a continental connection.
Access and Pricing
The trail operates from Lookout Pass, which functions as a ski resort during winter months and provides summer recreation access. Mountain bikers can arrange passes that bundle essential services: a $40 bike rental, a $20 trail ticket, and a $20 shuttle pass. Online reservations reduce the total cost by $10 per adult pass. For visitors bringing their own bikes, a $45 delivery fee is available for shuttle services.
The full 15-mile route descends gradually, making it accessible to riders of varying skill levels. The tunnels themselves—numbered passages through mountain stone—remain the trail’s signature feature, offering a direct physical connection to the railroad’s engineering legacy.
What Comes Next
The Hiawatha Trail continues to draw recreationists from across the Pacific Northwest, balancing preservation of regional history with contemporary outdoor use. As summer activity peaks in North Idaho and the surrounding Panhandle region, the trail remains open for scheduled rides, weather permitting.
For those seeking outdoor recreation closer to home, the Sandpoint Sharks are hosting their annual open water race on Lake Pend Oreille on July 31, offering a water-based alternative to mountain biking. Additionally, Emerald Creek Garnet Area recently shut down early after its garnet supply ran out, reminding visitors to plan ahead for popular North Idaho attractions during peak season.